This more or less coincided with the USA's entry into world war one in and as one can imagine steel production was in a great deal of flux to keep up with pre war production. I would be willing to bet that your gun is one of the D series guns and has a much higher nickel content due to the inconsistencies in steel runs. The final series was the A series. Serial numbers A A37, and were made from after the steel industry had gotten its second wind.
The A series should like the number series guns blue just fine. It sounds almost as though your salts may be beginning to deplete. As I stated before you may have to add more sodium nitrate to your bath or if you are using a commercial bath you may have to start a new batch of salts.
Before doing this I would suggest trying to blue the cylinder again. This time start the bath at and let the water boil off until the salts reach or if you have faith in your thermometers. At begin shocking the part. Dunk it in cold water and then go back into the blue tank for 5 minutes and keep repeating this until the bath comes to or the part blues. After the bluing does take leave it in the blue tank for an additional 15 minutes or so as the color may be slightly mottled from the shocking.
Nickel steel is a pain to blue but it will blue eventually. The last case scenario is to start a new bath. Sorry for not getting back sooner. I did get the cylinder to blue. I did just as you recommended. Heat was up to I shocked it about times. I could start to see it blue after about the third shock cycle. It took about 45 minutes to complete. It turned out O. I think you might be right about the properties of metal used. There are different colors in it. Thanks again for the help. I have recently tried my hand at bluing. I found an old Winchester with a ton of rust.
I cleaned it all up and polished it with a Dremel. Re-blued it. Now I see copper color in certain spots. What am I doing wrong? And do I need to strip it back down and start over? I have tried to Hot Blue my Benelli shotgun twice so far without success. The parts do not get further than brown, and appear rusty as soon as I get them out of the bluing bath to quench them in the warm water tank. What can the problem be, and what would be the solution?
Thanks Osama. Hi, I have the action of an Krag that I am refinishing at home. How can I achieve this with hot salt bluing? Thank you very much in advance for any help you can give. My question is on hot bluing.
Troubleshooting your Rifle and Shotgun
I am having a problem with the barrel from a winchester 20 gauge; the front end looks great, the back is not so great. I was in a rush to polish it, forgot about it and turned the fire out under pan and realized that I had one more barrel to do so I hurried and polished barrel turned fire back on and went for it. Anyone have this happen before? When I picked it up the receiver was copper looking very shiny like a new copper penny , and the barrel turned out like it should. I have no idea if the copper will turn color with age down the road or even if it will start rusting tomorrow. I have never seen or heard of such a thing.
So if anyone could tell me what to expect, It would be greatly appreciated. What you see is typical when a cast iron receiver is run through a standard black oxide line that is for steel.
I believe the silicon content of the casting causes this specific color. In my opinion this "color" will have the same wear resistance as your barrel which of course came out black. Some suppliers of hot black oxide chemicals make a special kind of salt which will turn the cast iron receiver black. Took my Henry. He used Alumablack and there are two spots where the bluing completely came off. Any idea why this happened? Hi Adilene. The gun probably wasn't clean or is corroded at those spots. Neither bluing nor anything else sticks well on wax, oil, grease, or dirt; and poorly adhering oxides from corrosion can rub right off, taking any bluing with them.
Comment: I have a Taurus Judge and it all of a sudden started getting rust on the cylinder. I got all the rust off of it and reblued it with a leading liquid and it still rusts.
Common Rifle Scope Problems - Gun Gods: Guns, Ammo and the Second Amendment
I tried the paste and it still rusts. I thought this is crazy and in a last ditch effort sanded down the cylinder again for the 3rd time. By the way, after using the liquid and paste, the gun rusted overnight. Well after the last sanding I rubbed down with transmission fluid. But after 5 days no rust.
I rub it down once a week and no rust Hi Don, oil is the whole secret -- whether it's transmission fluid or another oil.
Cold bluing offers no rust resistance at all, and hot bluing offers almost none. I too have noticed that some parts don't accept bluing despite that the materials are well degreased and well cleaned with gasoline.
What's interesting is that one barrel was blued well except 3 inches still not blued can you please help me? Best regards.
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For example, a pellet landing. Probably the next biggest reason for scope shift is seen when the elevation is adjusted too high. This happens because tension of this tube relaxes when elevation is too high and it is no longer able to firmly hold between the adjusted action screw and springs.
Correcting this can be done by simply not adjusting the reticle too high. Another misconception when shooting is that once the mounted scope has been leveled, everything is ready to go. Depending on the range used, the scope may need adjusted. The reticle must have optical centering. Even though this is generally too small to be detected by the naked eye, the barrel of the rifle practically never gazes in the same direction as the scope itself. If you find your rifle tilting to one side or the other, this might be your problem.
This occurs when groups are moving. Check out the B-Square level to fix this issue since it sticks out and is ambidextrous making it easy-to-use.